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HISTORY OF FASHION DESIGN, YEAR 1910 TO 1920

30 Wednesday Jul 2014

Posted by Oly in Charles Worth., fashion, fashion culture, Fashion Events, fashion news, fashion photography, Fashionista, Hats, HAUTE-COUTURE, History of couture, History of fashion 1910's, Mariano Fortuny, Paul Poiret, Uncategorized

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Charles Worth., Georges Doeuillet, Haute couture, history of fashion, Jacques Doucet, Jeanne Paquin, La Gazette du Bon Ton, Louise Chéruit, Mariano Fortuny, Paul Poiret, Redfern & Sons

FASHION IN THE 1910'S

FASHION IN THE 1910’S

With the begging of the new decade in 1910’s fashionable silhouette became more fluid and soft.

When the Ballets Russes preformed “Scheherazade” in Paris in 1910, an obsession for Orientalism was ensured.

The busy, working women of the time needed respectable but at the same time practice clothing for everyday wear and better garments for weekends. The smart tailor-made outfit was mainstay of the female wardrobe and compromised an ankle-length skirt and long, matching jacket.

Beaded and embroidered evening or dinner gown, 'La Mode' magazine, French, 1910.

Beaded and embroidered evening or dinner gown, ‘La Mode’ magazine, French, 1910.

By 914 skirts were the widest at the hips and very narrow at the ankles those making it very difficult for long strides.

 

Very talented couturier Paul Poiret was the leading dressmaker at the time, His clients were transformed into harem girls, in flowing pantaloons, turbans, and vivid colors and geishas in exotic kimono. Paul Poiret was also the first designer to invent an outfit that was easily put on without a maid’s help.

Art Deco, a new style emerging around that time was a big influence in the fashion world and leading couturiers of that time were very quick to catch up on that trend.fashion 1910

In 1911,Paul Poiret introduced “Parfums de Rosine,” named after his daughter, becoming the first French couturier to launch a signature fragrance, although again the London designer Lucile had preceded him with a range of in-house perfumes as early as 1907.

 

Another two of the most influential fashion designers of the time were Jacques Doucet and Mariano Fortuny.

In 1912, the fashion creations of Jacques Doucet were illustrated in the fashion magazine La Gazette du Bon Ton with six other leading Paris designers of the day – Louise Chéruit,Georges Doeuillet, Jeanne Paquin, Paul Poiret, Redfern & Sons, and the House of Charles Worth. His most original and outstanding designs were those he created for actresses of the time. Cecile Sorel, Rejane and Sarah Bernhardt (for whom he designed her famous white costume in L’Aiglon) all wore his designs both on and off stage.

 

With the WWI (1914-1919) on the horizon the world of fashion started to change. Paul Poiret and other fashion designers were called into the military and their couture houses closed. Wartime prevented commerce between France and the United States and, although the French silk industry remained in operation in Lyon, its clientele in the couture disappeared into the army along with many of its weavers.

As male designers were off defending France, a young female designer came of age. In 1915, Gabrielle Chanel was in the West of France, out of the combat zones, producing hats and designing loose-fitting chemise dresses with belts at the hip. By 1916, she was making casual pleated skirts from the practical Rodier wool jersey that before the war had been restricted to men’s underwear, and topping them with sailors’ sweaters–in the mode of the sportswear that had begun to appear earlier in Vogue.

Circa 1912 - Gabrielle ChaTnel in Etreta

Circa 1912 – Gabrielle ChaTnel in Etreta

Hats and Hair Style

Large hats with wide brims and broad hats with face-shadowing brims were the height of fashion in the early years of the decade, gradually shrinking to smaller hats with flat brims. Bobbed or short hair was introduced to Paris fashion in 1909 and spread to avant-garde circles in England during the war. Actress and fashion trendsetter of the silent films of that era, Irene Castle helped spread the fashion for short hairstyles in America.

Shoes

During 1910’s ladies began fussing about narrow feet, believing that it was a sign of good breeding and gentility. Both men and women wore shoes that were a full size too small, sometimes going as far as removing their small toe for extra narrow effect. Women wore boots during the day and the court shoe with a small Louis heel in the evenings. These were often embellished with embroidery or metallic thread and glass or jet beading on the toes. Did you know that the first sneaker was developed called Keds in 1917.  Do you know why they were called sneakers? The rubber sole didn’t make noise when you walked and you could quite literally “sneak” up on someone.

 

Menswear 1910's - Costume Reference

Menswear 1910’s – Costume Reference

Men’s Fashion

The Sack Suit- these were long, plain, loose-fitting (some might call them baggy) suit jackets with wide lapels and a one to three button closure. The most common colours were; Navy, Grey, Green and occasionally Brown. Fabrics were all wool with hints of striping, checks and plaid. The jacket could hang with straight opening edges or rounded. The overall look was a box shape jacket with pants with roomy hips and legs that hung straight down to the ankles, tapered slightly and were cuffed at the bottom.

 

Shoes in the 1910's

Shoes in the 1910’s

Shoes

Men could choose between three types of shoes, largely depending on where the shoes were going to be worn. Boots were designed for heavy walking and were usually worn for traveling, business and labor jobs. They were not ugly or bland. They were often two toned with the upper half white like a shoe spats, or a lighter color than the sole. Laces laced half way up and then switched to loop and hooks for the remainder of the height. The toes were pointed and the arches were high.

Hats and hairstyles and gloves:

Illustrator _ grain Wan Chai Photo Album - heap Sugar

Illustrator _ grain Wan Chai Photo Album – heap Sugar

Men always wore gloves, usually white in colour. Final touch for well-dressed Edwardian man was a hat. Derbies or bowlers and homburgs were acceptable day wear while silk top hats were worn for formal occasions. Sportsmen wore flat caps, also called Ivy, cab driver, or Newsboy hats.

 

Hair style in the 1910's

Hair style in the 1910’s

In the 1910s, actor Lon Chaney wore the decade’s classic men’s haircut that is still favoured today, though with some modern touches. He wore his hair short and clipped, slicked back, and with a neat side part. The key is a short, neat haircut slicked back from the face, although rarely some men wore a sort of pompadour style.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://life-is-a-fashion.blogspot.ca/2012/12/1900-1909-designers.html

 

 

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History Of Fashion Design/Beginning Year 1900

16 Tuesday Apr 2013

Posted by Oly in Beauty, fashion, Fashion Events, fashion news, Fashion Video, French Country, HAUTE-COUTURE, Uncategorized

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and E. Lewis, Belle Époque, Caroline Reboux, Charles Frederick Worth, Erté, fashion, George Barbier, Georges Lepape, Haute couture, La Gazette du Bon Ton, Legroux, paris, Paul Iribe, Paul Poiret, The Maison Redfern

Haute Couture Year 1900

Haute Couture Year 1900

 

Couture Beginnings

The first ever fashion designer, who wasn’t just a dressmaker, was Charles Frederick Worth(1986-1985). Before the former draper set up his maison de couture (fashion house) in Paris, clothing design and creation was handled by largely anonymous tailors and seamstresses, and high fashion was dictated mainly from styles worn at royal courts around Europe.  Worth’s success was such that he was able to dictate to his costumers what they should wear.

worth

Charles Frederick Worth

Charles Frederick Worth

Charles Frederick Worth

 

Early Twentieth Century

Year 1900

Year 1900

Throughout the 20th century, particularly all high fashion originated in Paris and to much lesser extend from London. Fashion magazines sent editors from around the world to Paris fashion shows. Department stores sent buyers to Paris fashion shows to purchase garments for copying and openly stole the style lines and trim details of others. Both made-to-measure salons and ready-to-wear department stores featured the latest Paris trends, adapted to the stores assumptions about the lifestyles and pocket books of their targeted customers. In the early 20th century the division between Haute Couture and ready-to-wear styles was not as sharp as it is today. The two separate modes of production were still far from being competitors and they often co-existed in houses where the seamstresses moved freely between made-to-measure and ready-made.

Year 1900

Year 1900

At the start of the 20th century fashion magazines began to include photographs and became even more influential than in the coming future. In cities around the world these magazines were greatly sought-after by the fashionable people seeking the latest fashion trends and had a profound effect on public taste and what people were going to wear. Talented illustrators – among them the most famous Paul Iribe, Georges Lepape, Erté, and George Barbier – drew exquisite fashion illustrations for these publications, which covered the most recent developments in fashion and beauty. Perhaps the most famous of these magazines was La Gazette du Bon Ton,  which was founded in 1912 by Lucien Vogel and regularly published until 1925.

Georges Lepape

Georges Lepape

George Barbier

Paul Iribe

Paul Iribe

La Gazette du Bon Ton

La Gazette du Bon Ton

 

1900s

Belle Époque

Belle Époque

This era in fashion was called Belle Époque (as this era was called by the French). The outfits of this decade were strikingly similar to the outfits designed by Charles Worth. By the end of 19th century, the horizons of the fashion industry had generally broadened, partly due to the more stable and independent lifestyle many well-off women were beginning to adopt and the practical clothes they wanted to wear to fit their lifestyles. However with all this progress in the fashionable world, the fashions of the La Belle Époque still retained the elaborate, upholstered, hourglass-shaped style of the 19th century. No fashionable lady could (or would) yet dress or undress her without the assistance of a third-party. The curvaceous S-Bend silhouette dominated fashion up until around 1908. The S-Bend corset was very tightly laced at the waist which forced the hips way back and the drooping mono bosom was thrust forward in a pouter pigeon effect creating an S shape figure.

Corset 1900's

Corset 1900’s

The constant need for radical change in fashion, which is now essential for the survival of modern fashion within the present system, was still literally unthinkable. The only differences from one season to the next was the use of different trimmings or introduction some innovative fabrics. Toward the end of the decade the fashionable silhouette gradually started to become more straight and slim, partly due to Paul Poiret‘s high-waisted, shorter-skirted Directoire line of clothes that became available to the public.

Paul Poiret

Paul Poiret

The Maison Redfern was the first fashion house to offer women a tailored suit based directly on its male counterpart and the extremely practical and soberly elegant garment soon became an indispensable part of the wardrobe of any well-dressed woman of that time.

Fashionable woman wearing a man's inspired suit

Fashionable woman wearing a man’s inspired suit

 

HAIR STYLES AND HATS

Hats 1900's

Hats 1900’s

Another indispensable part of the outfit of the well-dressed woman was the designer hat, it was a must. In fact hats or head pieces were always worn by women throughout centuries at all times

Hats at the time of 1900’s were either tiny little confections that perched on top of the head, or large and wide-brimmed, trimmed with flowers, ribbons, feathers and occasionally complete with stuffed birds (male hummingbirds for those who could afford them). Caroline Reboux, Legroux, and E. Lewis were the most sought-after hat designers of that time. Parasols were still used as decorative accessories and in the summer they dripped with lace and added to the overall elaborate prettiness. Large hats were worn with evening wear.

Caroline Reboux

Caroline Reboux

Legroux Hats

Legroux Hats

Masses of wavy hair were fashionable, swept up to the top of the head (if necessary, over horsehair pads called “rats”) and gathered into a knot.

Hair Styles of 1900's

Hair Styles of 1900’s

Hair 1900's

Hair 1900’s

By the end of the decade, hats had smaller drooping brims that shaded the face and deep crowns, and the overall top-heavy effect remained.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Frederick_Worth

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_fashion_design#1900s

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belle_Époque

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1900s_in_fashion#Style_gallery_1900.E2.80.931906

http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Vogel

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeanne_Paquin

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caroline_Reboux

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