With the begging of the new decade in 1910’s fashionable silhouette became more fluid and soft.
When the Ballets Russes preformed “Scheherazade” in Paris in 1910, an obsession for Orientalism was ensured.
The busy, working women of the time needed respectable but at the same time practice clothing for everyday wear and better garments for weekends. The smart tailor-made outfit was mainstay of the female wardrobe and compromised an ankle-length skirt and long, matching jacket.
By 914 skirts were the widest at the hips and very narrow at the ankles those making it very difficult for long strides.
Very talented couturier Paul Poiret was the leading dressmaker at the time, His clients were transformed into harem girls, in flowing pantaloons, turbans, and vivid colors and geishas in exotic kimono. Paul Poiret was also the first designer to invent an outfit that was easily put on without a maid’s help.
In 1911,Paul Poiret introduced “Parfums de Rosine,” named after his daughter, becoming the first French couturier to launch a signature fragrance, although again the London designer Lucile had preceded him with a range of in-house perfumes as early as 1907.
In 1912, the fashion creations of Jacques Doucet were illustrated in the fashion magazine La Gazette du Bon Ton with six other leading Paris designers of the day – Louise Chéruit,Georges Doeuillet, Jeanne Paquin, Paul Poiret, Redfern & Sons, and the House of Charles Worth. His most original and outstanding designs were those he created for actresses of the time. Cecile Sorel, Rejane and Sarah Bernhardt (for whom he designed her famous white costume in L’Aiglon) all wore his designs both on and off stage.
With the WWI (1914-1919) on the horizon the world of fashion started to change. Paul Poiret and other fashion designers were called into the military and their couture houses closed. Wartime prevented commerce between France and the United States and, although the French silk industry remained in operation in Lyon, its clientele in the couture disappeared into the army along with many of its weavers.
As male designers were off defending France, a young female designer came of age. In 1915, Gabrielle Chanel was in the West of France, out of the combat zones, producing hats and designing loose-fitting chemise dresses with belts at the hip. By 1916, she was making casual pleated skirts from the practical Rodier wool jersey that before the war had been restricted to men’s underwear, and topping them with sailors’ sweaters–in the mode of the sportswear that had begun to appear earlier in Vogue.
Hats and Hair Style
Large hats with wide brims and broad hats with face-shadowing brims were the height of fashion in the early years of the decade, gradually shrinking to smaller hats with flat brims. Bobbed or short hair was introduced to Paris fashion in 1909 and spread to avant-garde circles in England during the war. Actress and fashion trendsetter of the silent films of that era, Irene Castle helped spread the fashion for short hairstyles in America.
During 1910’s ladies began fussing about narrow feet, believing that it was a sign of good breeding and gentility. Both men and women wore shoes that were a full size too small, sometimes going as far as removing their small toe for extra narrow effect. Women wore boots during the day and the court shoe with a small Louis heel in the evenings. These were often embellished with embroidery or metallic thread and glass or jet beading on the toes. Did you know that the first sneaker was developed called Keds in 1917. Do you know why they were called sneakers? The rubber sole didn’t make noise when you walked and you could quite literally “sneak” up on someone.
The Sack Suit- these were long, plain, loose-fitting (some might call them baggy) suit jackets with wide lapels and a one to three button closure. The most common colours were; Navy, Grey, Green and occasionally Brown. Fabrics were all wool with hints of striping, checks and plaid. The jacket could hang with straight opening edges or rounded. The overall look was a box shape jacket with pants with roomy hips and legs that hung straight down to the ankles, tapered slightly and were cuffed at the bottom.
Men could choose between three types of shoes, largely depending on where the shoes were going to be worn. Boots were designed for heavy walking and were usually worn for traveling, business and labor jobs. They were not ugly or bland. They were often two toned with the upper half white like a shoe spats, or a lighter color than the sole. Laces laced half way up and then switched to loop and hooks for the remainder of the height. The toes were pointed and the arches were high.
Hats and hairstyles and gloves:
Men always wore gloves, usually white in colour. Final touch for well-dressed Edwardian man was a hat. Derbies or bowlers and homburgs were acceptable day wear while silk top hats were worn for formal occasions. Sportsmen wore flat caps, also called Ivy, cab driver, or Newsboy hats.
In the 1910s, actor Lon Chaney wore the decade’s classic men’s haircut that is still favoured today, though with some modern touches. He wore his hair short and clipped, slicked back, and with a neat side part. The key is a short, neat haircut slicked back from the face, although rarely some men wore a sort of pompadour style.
Aritzia, backpacks, canada, designers, fashion, Herschel Backpacks, Herschel Supply CO, hipsters, lifestyle, Lifestyle Fashion, local brands, Lululemon, no fashion, Obakki, trendy, Vancouver Style, Vancouver worst dressed city, yoga pants
I lived in Vancouver since 1997. It’s a great place to be, rated one of the best cities to live in the world, Vancouver certainly has a lot to offer. Each to their own. I find that it is a great place to be if you like outdoors, anything to do with nature and recreation. I am the kind of person who wants it all, I often say it’s all or nothing, I want the same from the city I live in. I want more than just the stunning mountain and ocean views, endless hiking trails and yoga studios with organic shops sprouting around all over town.
I, my self love the nature with a good balance of city life, night life, cultural events, art galleries, museums, hipster eateries and of course good selection of fashion stores. I have been working in the fashion industry for many years and often found it very difficult to find a good places to shop in Vancouver, or for that matter even stylish people sometimes are far and few in between. It was after all named third worst dressed city in world in 2011, due to yoga pants trend that we owe to a world-famous yoga company founded in Vancouver and that isLululemon.
But not all is lots for this beautiful city. This city does have some cool and trendy companies coming out here. Of course everyone in Vancouver will know about Aritzia. I have worked for Aritzia for over three years. It was a great experience and a pleasure to work for a local company with so many like-minded and stylish people. Started out in 1984 by Brian Hill, who is by far the coolest boss I have ever worked for. What I like about Aritzia is that they cater to different age groups. They have in-house designers working very hard to come up with the latest fashion styles, the only problem with Aritzia is that everyone shops there, so in a small city like Vancouver, you are often one of many girls wearing the same shirt or a pair of pants.
Another local brand is Obakki. I have also worked for them. They make high-end luxury clothing, evening dresses. Very fine quality indeed, just need to find that special occasion to wear it for. Obakki was founded in 2005 by Treana Peake. Treena is an amazing woman, pleasure to work with, she also donates a lot of her profit to many different organizations. The Obakki Foundation, Obakki’s philanthropic counterpart, is a registered charity that focuses on providing clean water and education in Africa.
And of course least but not last is Herschel Supply Co, Vancouver very own hipster company making backpacks, bags and travel accessories. To tell you the truth I had no idea Herschel was from Vancouver. It took me to move to London to find out about them first ,way back in 2012. I use to shop in Mercantile boutique in East London and they carried Herschel backpacks there. Never thought backpacks would be so trendy, but they caught my eye and now I have three backpacks and a wallet and I am sure I will keep buying more with each season. I barely ever leave my house without my Herschel backpack, they are stylish and you can fit so many things, perfect for on the go lifestyle.
I will mention Lululemon, who are massively big all over the world. Founded in 1998 by Chip Wilson. Although I don’t shop there, I am still proud to see the company do well on the international market.
My conclusion is, don’t come to Vancouver for it’s fashion or shopping. Do come here if you love nature, want to experience a young, modern and multicultural city, but if you want style, definitely go to NY instead, if you so happen to be in North America. As for me, I do most of my shopping online.
I want to introduce to you my gorgeous friend Carlie. She is a Fit Model at Aritzia. I worked with Carlie for 3 years. We became very close over the years and shared a lot of funny stories about our life adventures. I was very sad to leave the company and to lose a great work colleague like Carlie. At only 23 years of age, Carlie is a young and ambitions individual.
I want to do a mini interview with her, because most of you will have no idea what a Fit Model is and what this job involves, skills, qualifications etc. All fashion designers or clothing manufacturers use Fit Models to check the fit, drape and visual appearance of a design on a “real” human being, effectively acting as a live mannequin.
OS: Where are you from Carlie?
CR: I am born and raised in Port Coquitlam, BC, Canada. Lived in the same house my whole life, but this weekend I am finally moving in with my boyfriend Kyle. I am very exited, it’s a big step in life and I really look forward to it.
OS: What are you doing with your life at the moment?
CR: I am studying General Business for my Diploma and after that I hope to figure out what area I am interested in, so far marketing strategy is my go to.
OS: How did you get into Fit Modelling and when?
CR: I started Fit Modelling after I was laid off from my warehouse job in Port Coquitlam and my boyfriend at the time showed me an add out of the Metro newspaper saying Aritzia was looking for Fit Models with measurements..
I was hired after my first interview (all they did was measure me with my clothes on and ask for my availability) At the time they only had one part-time fit model and were expanding so I think they were desperate. I’ve been there for over 5 years now, though so it seems they made a good choice hiring me lol.
OS: Did you know what a Fit Model was before and how do you explain it to people when they ask you about it?
CR: When I went for the interview I thought it was for a fitness model and had no idea what I was going to do. I have always been athletic and I was going to the gym almost every day at that time, so I figured I would give it a try.
When people ask me what I do for a living I usually explain to them what a fit model is and that I am basically a human mannequin and I just try on clothes all day, giving back feedback to the designers and technicians. Sometimes (depending on the person) I save myself the conversation and just tell them who I assist during the fittings at Aritzia.
OS: What is the best and worst part about this job?
CR: Best part about this job is the flexibility, pay and people I work with.
Worst part is how much the industry changes, especially in a fairly new and expanding company. They can put a lot of pressure on you with keeping your measurements within the tolerance and sometimes you can be blamed for things because it’s more convenient. You also have to have “tough skin”, people will make comments about your body, forgetting you’re a real person. Of course they don’t mean to be mean or rude, you always have to keep that in mind.
OS: Your favorite designer at Aritzia to work with and why?
OS: How long do fit sessions usually last, and what do you have to do?
CR: Fittings can last anywhere from 5 minutes to a full 8 hours per day or more, depending on the time of the year and what’s on the agenda. All I have to do if try on each garment they give me and just give honest, valuable feedback based on fit, feeling and look, by working with the pattern makers, technicians and design team.
OS: How do you stay in shape?
CR: I stay in shape by eating a very clean healthy diet, I’ve always been a healthy eater but recently I gotten into healthy baking since I have a huge sweet tooth. Also, I have gluten and wheat sensitivity, so doing my own cooking and baking allows me to eat whatever I want!
I don’t have any consistent gym schedule even though I should, but right now I do a spin class once a week, some sort of total body workout once or twice a week and then I get outside if the weathers is nice on the weekend.
OS: What is your personal style?
CR: I am a very casual person during the week, if I could live in sweats and stretchy clothes I would, since I am constantly changing at work all the time, I’m never in my own clothes anyways. On the weekend, depending on my mood, I like to dress up and accessorize a bit. I’m not much of a heel person, though I can’t walk in anything higher than 4 inches.
OS: One thing you can’t absolutely live without at the moment?
CR: Right now, my car. I live in the suburbs and I need my freedom.
OS: Your future goals?
CR: Once I complete school I want to get into a full-time position doing some sort of marketing or business strategy, nothing involving math though, as I am terrible with numbers. I also want to travel within the next year and buy a house in about 3-4 years.
How darling are Charlotte Olympia‘s new Zodiac flats? They are a perfect Birthday treat for your self or your friends. Your star sign will never go out of style, so these have excellent fashion-mileage, too.
British born Charlotte Dellal is the creative genius behind this playful shoe brand. After launching in 2006, it’s now one of the hottest shoe brands around thanks to her trademark Dolly platforms. Many celebrities are being spotted wearing Charlotte’s shoes, making them even more desirable.
GISELE BUNDCHEN, who is one of my favourite Models, wants more fashion photographers to adopt a more natural look when shooting for advertising campaigns – urging them to embrace imperfections and steer away from over retouching the images. As the world’s most powerful supermodel, the 32-year-old has starred in countless high-fashion campaigns – including, most recently one for BLK DNM.
The Brazilian-born beauty worked closely with the brand’s creative director, Johan Lindeberg, on the shoot, who photographed her himself and praised his relaxed technique. Lindberg persuaded Bundchen to go without make-up or hair styling for the photographs (the full results of which are yet to be unveiled), and the whole shoot took just two hours.
“I loved his approach because I feel like women should be really real and raw and it doesn’t really happen anymore. I love that feeling of, you know, we are women – we are so different. Our imperfections are what makes us unique and beautiful. He gets that. He’s not trying to retouch you or put a pretty light on you. He’s not like, ‘You’ve got to look a certain way.’ He’s like, ‘You are you.'”
To my opinion Gisele is perfect as it is, even without make-up and professionally done hair she looks amazing.
The mother of two has also previously starred in campaigns for Givenchy, Versace, H&M, Chanel and Balenciaga, to name a few. She recently made Forbes’ list of The World’s 100 Most Powerful Women – the only model to do so – and alongside husband Tom Brady, who is an American football quarterback for the New England Patriots, are one of the world’s richest celebrity couples, second only to Beyonce and Jay-Z.
I have discovered this company some time ago and I think the idea behind this business is just amazing. This company is basically a consignment store, taking luxury fashion items from stylish ladies, that want to get rid of some unwanted items and free up the space in their closets for more fashion goods.
Since launching in February 2008, BuyMyWardrobe helped over 250 fashionable ladies to unload unwanted items and 1000’s more have joined the cause since then.
Why I think this is such a great idea, because people like you and I, who love to own quality clothes from brand name designers, but perhaps don’t have the cash for it, can now buy designer names such as; Stella McCartney, Rag&Bone, Gucci, Valentino, Missoni, Dior, Chloe, Lanvin, Diane Von Furstenberg and much more, at a great price that you can’t resist.
Or if you are that lucky lady who needs a room in her closet, because you already have many upon many items of high-end luxury fashion items, you to can join in and become a seller your self.
All you have to do is register on the BuyMyWardrobe site for free. Beware, it is highly addictive!!!
Gaby Aghion was born in Alexandria, Egypt in the year 1921. She started Chloé in 1952 after moving to Paris in 1945 with a vision and coined the term ‘prêt-à-porter’ which means Ready-To-Wear. Gaby Aghion continued to run the house until 1985, when Chloé was bought-out by Dunhill Holdings (now Richemont Group).
In 2007 Chloé became the first luxury brand to offer an iPhone specific version of its website. In 2008, the brand broadcasted its fashion shows on the same-day they took place.
In 2011 MacGibbon was replaced by former Pringle of Scotland Designer Clare Waight Keller.
Today, just like Grace Kelly and Maria Callas did before them, young stars like Kirsten Dunst, Clémence Poésy and Jessica Alba fall in love with the soft elegance of the French house.
I also love Chloé Perfumes.
Russian designers for this Fall 2013 showed us some really funky and innovative hat creations, during the fashion shows that took place in Moscow, in recent days.
I personally love hats, I wear them all year round. I find that hats complete an outfit. I just don’t know if I am daring enough to wear some of the creations from these Russian designers such as; Slava Zaitsev, Bunker Z, Marina Makaron and Alena Akhmadullina. What do you think, can you pull it off?